356 World: Keeping Bathtubs Alive

Legions of fans know that the Porsche 356 is a great car. But many have also learned that bathtubs can be financially committing to own and repair. What can your average enthusiast do to keep one of these automotive treasures up and running--short of a second mortgage? I sought out Mike Grishman of Foreign Intrigue, Maine's foremost source of vintage Porsche parts, who dispensed some useful advice on how to keep your 356 on the road.

"The most important thing", Mike insists, "is to change your oil and adjust the valves regularly". Primary lubricant should be 20w50 weight oil, and you should replace the filter with every oil change. "An oil filter runs only around $5, so it's cheap maintenance".

He cautions that the typical 356 engine's by-pass filter system only filters about 10% of the oil at a time: "Keeping clean oil in the crankcase is paramount. Check your oil level frequently and change it least twice a year, once before winter storage." Mike does not recommend synthetic oil for a 356, citing ample evidence of increased oil leakage after older engines were switched to synthoil. Grishman cites synthetic oil's sole advantage as better lubrication during cold-weather starting, but counters, "Who really drives their 356 in the winter??

Working on these cars is something of a lost art, Grishman admits, yet he's adamant that many owners can perform basic maintenance. "Certainly oil and spark plug changes, maybe valve adjustments if you're mechanically comfortable". Whatever you do, remember the mantra of 356 owners—"Ignorance equals expensive!" If you do need the help of a professional, be forewarned that mechanics familiar with air-cooled VW's do not automatically understand 356s.

Grishman says the 356 series lends itself well to preservation and future use. He feels the six-volt electrical system will work fine if you keep the contacts clean and contends that the common upgrade to 12-volts is not generally necessary. However, he does advise changing the fuses every few years as they can build up significant corrosion.

He also feels that CD- or other electronic-ignition systems often cause more problems than they solve. "They are just little black boxes that like go bad at the wrong time and leave you stranded," says Grishman. "The great thing about 356s is that if something does go wrong, you can usually at least make it home". With that in mind, pack a tool roll in the trunk along with a few necessary spares: fan belt, plugs, points, condenser, some fuel line, light bulbs, fuses, and clutch and accelerator cables. It’s back to the way motoring used to be.

Mike says that careful conversion to new Weber carburetors can be a good idea. The 40-plus-year-old original carbs are virtually all getting too worn-out and cranky to keep in tune. Also, he feels that the Bosch 050 distributor makes a good replacement for an original, with a better advance curve for today's gasoline, and 75% cheaper than factory parts.

Surprisingly, Mike feels that rust protection is basically a non-issue. "We don't drive these cars like we used to, a 356 is not your only car, and you don't drive it in the winter". Mike simply advises to clean minor rust off the underside, paint with rust-preventative paint, and then undercoat. Once undercoated, simply don't drive your 356 in the winter, and keep it squeaky clean the rest of the year.

Ralph Good (front) and DER’s own 356 maven Glenn Hill (up to his elbows in engine room) detail the 1962 356B coupe donated to a benefit auction for the Make-A-Wish Foundation of Maine. (Dave Getchell photo)